What’s Allen Drinking?

October 1, 2016


IMG_0261Allen Moon’s marvelous other life as the force behind Santa Ana Sites, gives him an opportunity to walk in the presenter’s shoes as he provides the performing arts pop-up version of concerts in unexpected spaces, in his home community of Santa Ana and usually within a convenient stroll of his man-loft there.

Latest to make an appearance under his curation was monologist Mike Daisey this past Saturday. I wasn’t able to be there as I was obligated to attend the Adelaide, Australia, OZ Asia Festival and Cyclone Hoo-Ha, but did have the pleasure of providing the wine to sustain the lucky guests in Allen’s loft who did attend. 6 red and 6 white was the request from the chief curator, and we obliged on the white side with a white burgundy drinking way above its’ price point.

Dominique Lafon is one of the most celebrated winemakers in all of Burgundy, known for outrageous and outrageously priced white burgundies mostly from Meursault. For the most part, these are wines that sell for prices ranging from $150 to $1000 per bottle.

Just a few years ago though, Lafon surprised the wine world by purchasing vineyards quite outside the usually glamorous address of his customary vineyards and set up a second operation called Les Heritiers du Comte Lafon, which is French for “yes this wine is made under the direction of Dominique Lafon, but it’s not the overpriced burgundy from Meursault, just a simple chardonnay from one of the outer provinces.”

What’s really great about this though is that this is a wine that benefits from all that Dominique has to offer as a skilled winemaker without all of the overhead of a “Beverly Hills” address. As you would expect from a well-crafted white burgundy, the wine offers up all the beauty of chardonnay, clothed in an understated structure; dry, marvelous supporting acids expressed as a lemony-minerality. Not tropical in a California chardonnay way. More restrained with hints of peach and pear, but it’s the more subtle elements that don’t overpower the palate and make it a really great food wine. Unlike Mike Daisey, this isn’t the star of the show, more like a nice match to go with whatever else is on the table. It’s not a keeper, it’s a drinker.

I intend to drink it a lot.

Les Héritiers du Comtes Lafon, Macon-Villages 2015

around $22 at fine wine shops nationally